Translucent applique cutwork machine embroidery and method

ABSTRACT

Translucent applique cutwork embroidery designs can be performed by a sewing machine, preferably a computerized machine with digitized design embroidery patterns. The method employs a foundation fabric  11  and a removable stabilizer  12 . Once a cutwork section  14  in an applique cutwork embroidery design is defined with a set of concentric underlay stitches  13  that bind said foundation fabric to removable stabilizer, said foundation fabric is removed from said cutwork section. An applique fabric  16  is then stitched in place over the cutwork section with another set of concentric underlay stitches  13  that are sewn in approximately the same location as the first set of concentric underlay stitches. Excess applique fabric  16  is cut away. The applique cutwork seam  18  joining applique fabric to foundation fabric is finished with zigzag stitches  17  that overcast all said concentric underlay stitches. Where appropriate, a machine embroidery design  19  is stitched on top of said applique fabric, cascading onto said foundation fabric. Said applique cutwork seam is concealed with satin stitches, or similar concealing stitches  20 . The balance of the embroidery design is stitched onto said foundation fabric. When said removable stabilizer is removed, no further trimming of fabrics or threads is required.

CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

This application claims the benefit of PPA Ser. No. 60/555,940, filed on2004 Mar. 24 by the present inventor.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

This method relates to embroidery and more particularly to a method forperforming applique cutwork embroidery with a sewing machine, whichyields applique cutwork embroidery that looks like fine applique cutworkembroidery, performed by hand.

Traditional cutwork embroidery is accomplished by removing wholesections of material from a fabric, before, during, or after theapplication of an embroidery design, leaving a void in said fabric thatis integral to an embroidery design. Satin, or similar, stitches appliedin tight formation about a section of fabric to be removed, hold inplace threads of said fabric after fabric sections are removed.

With the expansion of fabric types that include materials such asorganza, organdy, netting, and laces, cutwork embroidery has expanded toinclude a second fabric layer applied over said fabric voids in acutwork embroidery design. Said second fabric layer is often of alighter weight and lower thread density than fabric in which cutworksections are removed.

In traditional cutwork, stitch construction about cutwork sections of anembroidery design does not undergo shearing forces when opposing forcesare applied along the plane of said fabric. However, applique cutworkinvolves stitching a second, often lighter weight fabric, to afoundation fabric to cover fabric voids integral to a cutwork embroiderydesign stitched on said first fabric. The seams binding both layers offabric are stitched along the edge of each cutwork section and concealedby satin stitches, or similar concealing stitches.

Often seams used to join two fabrics in applique cutwork areinsufficiently stable to endure shearing forces along the fabrics' planethat would otherwise be considered normal to ever day use. As a result,most garments and other fabric items embellished with applique cutworkas used infrequently to minimize repeated wear and stress on the seamconstruction of the applique cutwork.

Furthermore, applique cutwork applied to garment construction oftenapply the second fabric layer to the back of a cutwork embroiderydesign, leaving the second fabric layer intact as an additional layer tothe garment. The applique fabric is sized and attached to the garment inmanner that allow said applique fabric to undergo shearing forces alongthe fabrics' plane in greater proportion than said foundation fabric.Such construction techniques waste materials, especially in large scalemanufacturing, while producing undesirable effects that can only beapplied to a limited number and type of garments.

As a consequence, people have tried to develop a method for creatingapplique cutwork using a sewing machine. Unfortunately, while mostmethods to date have accurately reproduced applique cutwork embroideryusing a sewing machine, with greater uniformity, the need to constructan applique cutwork seam suitably stable and durable for every day usestill persists. Additionally, the preferred method of constructingapplique cutwork for garments is wasteful in its fabric construction,potentially requiring more labor and a higher skill level to perform.

Thus a need exist for a method for performing applique cutworkembroidery, using a sewing machine, that is equal to or better inappearance and durability to hand stitched or machine sewn appliquecutwork embroidery and can be performed in a manner suitable for moreefficient construction of garments and other fabric articles.

BACKGROUND OF THE PRIOR ART

In prior art, a method used to perform applique cutwork embroidery usinga sewing machine uses partially removable stabilizer. Also said methoddoes not address applique cutwork seam construction suitable for normal,daily wear and stress. In addition, said method does not addressembroidery on the applique fabric. Furthermore, said method calls forremoval of excess applique fabric after all stitching is complete,limiting the scope of the overall applique cutwork embroidery on thefoundation fabric and choice of fabric that may be used for applique.

Another method to perform applique cutwork embroidery with a sewingmachine applies embroidery to the applique fabric. However, said methoddoes not allow for machine embroidery designs that span both foundationand applique fabric. Furthermore, said method does not address appliquecutwork seam construction suitable for normal, daily wear and stress.

Another method uses an embroidery sewing machine and removablestabilizer to adapt traditional machine embroidery applique designs tocreate applique cutwork embroidery. However, the method requires theintermediate introduction of partially removable stabilizer to stabilizethe cut fabric edges of a cutwork embroidery design to completestitching of said embroidery design. This method leaves one side of theembroidery design unsuitable for display. Furthermore, said method doesnot address applique cutwork seam construction suitable for normal,daily wear and stress.

U.S. Pat. No. 2,169,590 to Myers; U.S. Pat. No. 2,215,834 to Magliano;U.S. Pat. No. 4,512,274 to Campbell; and U.S. Pat. No. 1,764,848 toMoffatt are methods for seam finishing by folding under the fabricedges. However, methods do not apply to my invention. U.S. Pat. No.6,241,081 to Holden; U.S. Pat. No. 6,176,271 to Sayers; U.S. Pat. No.6,267,068 to Fickers; and U.S. Pat. No. 6,431,221 to Wrigley connect twofabric edges with loops and a pin. However, methods do not apply to myinvention. U.S. Pat. No. 4,580,514 to Hanyu and U.S. Pat. No. 2,122,526to Kattermann use a machine with two needles and a looper. Neithermethod uses a conventional sewing machine. These methods do not apply tomy invention. U.S. Pat. No. 5,141,140 to Moffett-Hall, U.S. Pat. No.5,531,176 to Johnson, U.S. Pat. No. 4,427,472 to Trager, and U.S. Pat.No. 1,723,729 to Goldberg show methods of creating applique. However,the methods do not include embroidery or cutwork. U.S. Pat. No.3,226,732 to Zerille is a method of reverse applique using a sewingmachine, but is not this invention. U.S. Pat. No. 4,754,719 to Takken isa method to temporarily secure applique fabric in the hoop while beingstitched in place, but does not involve cutwork. U.S. Pat. No. 6,364,356to Keshavaraj is a method for reinforcing a fabric seam capable ofenduring large shearing forces, but is not my invention.

While some of the aforementioned methods produce applique cutworkembroidery designs with a sewing machine, the durability of the appliquecutwork embroidery is such that items manufactured with these methodsare relatively fragile products, requiring special handling and minimaluse in order to preserve the applique cutwork embroidery design.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The primary object of the present invention is to provide a method forproducing applique cutwork embroidery using a sewing machine (preferablyone that is computerized and has digitizing software) which duplicatesthe appearance of hand stitched applique cutwork embroidery;

Another object is to provide such a method that yields applique cutworkembroidery having an even more enhanced, perfectly stitched appearancethan that of hand stitched applique cutwork embroidery;

An additional object is to provide such a method, which produces a seamconstruction suitable for using applique cutwork embroidery in everydaygarments and other fabric products in which said products undergonormal, daily wear and stress;

An additional object is to provide such a method, which reduces theamount of material required to produce applique cutwork embroidery ingarment construction;

Still another object is to provide such a method, which increases thetypes and combinations of foundation and applique fabrics that can beused to produce applique cutwork embroidery;

Yet an even further object is to reduce the complexity and skillrequired to construct applique cutwork embroidery, thereby reducing thelabor required to construct applique cutwork embroidery and increasingthe commercial viability of same; and

Furthermore, another object is to reduce material cost of clothing andother fabric articles produced with applique cutwork embroidery designsby employing a method suitable to improved material conservation.

The present invention accomplishes the above and other objects byproviding a method of producing machine applique cutwork embroidery, ofsufficient durability for normal, everyday use, while greatly expandingthe types and combinations of fabrics that can be used to do so.Furthermore, the present invention expands the concept of appliquecutwork embroidery to allow for machine embroidery designs that cascadeover both foundation and applique fabrics.

The method employs a foundation fabric and removable stabilizer, whichbind together with concentric underlay stitches about a cutwork sectionbinding said foundation fabric and removable stabilizer together.Examples of removable stabilizer material include, but are not limitedto, water-soluble or heat-removable plastic, cloth or paperized fabric.

Concentric underlay stitches should be in rows of at least two, in whichthe rows are approximately parallel to each other. The normal, crosssectional distance between the inner and outer rows of concentricunderlay stitches should be nearly as long as the width of the satinstitches, or similar concealing stitches, that will eventually coversaid concentric underlay stitches.

Once said concentric underlay stitches are sewn and each cutwork sectionis defined, remove fabric from said cutwork section of said foundationfabric, using the inner most row of concentric underlay stitches as acutting guide, leaving said removable stabilizer intact.

Place applique fabric on top of a cutwork section, covering said cutworksection and all associated concentric underlay stitches with saidapplique fabric.

Bind said applique fabric to said foundation fabric and removablestabilizer with more concentric underlay stitches. The second set ofconcentric underlay stitches should be stitched in the same manner asthe first set, as at least two rows of stitches, approximately parallelto each other, and in approximately the same location as the first setof concentric underlay stitches.

Trim excess applique fabric from the applique cutwork embroidery. Usethe outer row of concentric underlay stitches as a cut guide for cuttingsaid applique fabric, without cutting any underlay stitches.

Apply zigzag stitches on top of concentric underlay stitches,overcasting the inner most and outer most rows of concentric underlaystitches to complete applique cutwork seam construction.

Apply, as appropriate, a decorative embroidery design stitched toapplique fabric. The embroidery design may cascade over both appliqueand foundation fabrics, where appropriate, thereby allowing thedecorative stitches of the applique cutwork embroidery design to take ona contiguous appearance across both foundation and applique fabrics.

Cover said applique cutwork seam with machine satin stitches, or similarconcealing stitches.

Finish stitching the balance of the embroidery design onto thefoundation fabric

Upon completely stitching an applique cutwork embroidery design, removeremovable stabilizer. When the stabilizer has been removed by theappropriate method, as determined by the type of stabilizer used, theapplique cutwork embroidery design is complete. No further trimming offabric or threads is required.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

In the following detailed description, reference will be made to theattached drawings in which:

FIG. 1 is a top view of an applique cutwork embroidery design obtainedby prior art;

FIG. 2 is a top view of an applique cutwork embroidery design obtainedby my method;

FIG. 3 is a top view of a fabric with concentric underlay stitches andrepresentative cut line before fabric is removed;

FIG. 4 is a top view of FIG. 3 with a cutwork section of said fabricremoved;

FIG. 5 is a top view of FIG. 4 with an applique fabric placed on top;

FIG. 6 is a top view of FIG. 5 with said applique fabric stitched inplace and trimmed about the outer row of concentric underlay stitches;

FIG. 7 is a top view of FIG. 6 with zigzag stitches applied on top ofconcentric underlay stitches;

FIG. 8 is a close up view of zigzag stitches overcasting all rows ofconcentric underlay stitches and associated fabric cut edges;

FIG. 9 is a top view of FIG. 7 with machine embroidery design stitchedon top of and spanning foundation and applique fabrics;

FIG. 10 is a top view of FIG. 9 with satin stitches covering zigzag,concentric underlay stitches, and associated cut fabric edges.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

For purposes of describing the preferred embodiment, the terminologyused in the reference to the numbered components in the drawing is asfollows:

-   -   11. foundation fabric    -   12. removable stabilizer    -   13. concentric underlay stitches    -   14. cutwork section    -   15. cut fabric edge    -   16. applique fabric    -   17. zigzag stitches    -   18. applique cutwork seam    -   19. machine embroidery design    -   20. satin stitches, or similar concealing stitches

Referring now to the drawings, FIG. 1 shows applique cutwork embroiderydesign performed by prior art.

As shown and describe in relation to FIGS. 2-10, the present inventionuses at least three layers of material, a layer of foundation fabric 11a removable stabilizer 12 and an applique fabric 16.

FIG. 3 illustrates the application of concentric underlay stitches 13about a cutwork section 14 of an applique cutwork embroidery design,binding together foundation fabric 11 and removable stabilizer 12.

FIG. 4 illustrates removal of foundation fabric 11 from within the innermost row of concentric underlay stitches 13 about a cutwork section 14,leaving removable stabilizer 12 intact.

FIG. 5 illustrates application of applique fabric 16 to a cutworksection 14. Applique fabric covers said cutwork section and allassociated concentric underlay stitches 13, before being stitched inplace with concentric underlay stitches 13. Said concentric underlaystitches are stitched as at least two rows of stitches, approximatelyparallel to each other, and in approximately the same location asconcentric underlay stitches shown in FIG. 3

FIG. 6 illustrates removal of applique fabric 16, about the outside ofthe concentric underlay stitches 13 using the outer row of saidconcentric stitches as a cut line guide.

FIG. 7 illustrates stitching of zigzag stitches 17 on top of andovercasting concentric underlay stitches.

FIG. 8 provides a close up view illustrating zigzag stitches 18overcasting all concentric underlay stitches 13 and associated cutfabric edges 15, completing construction of applique cutwork seam 18.

FIG. 9 illustrates stitching machine embroidery design 19 onto bothfoundation fabric 11 and applique fabric 16.

FIG. 10 illustrates application of satin stitches 20 concealing appliquecutwork seam 18 and associated cut fabric edges.

DESCRIPTION OF ALTERNATIVE EMBODIMENTS

With FIG. 9, a machine embroidery design is stitched onto bothfoundation fabric 11 and applique fabric 16, following completion ofapplique cutwork seam 18. Completion of zigzag stitches 17 beforestitching a machine embroidery design 19 is not imperative. Zigzagstitches 17 may be sewn before, during, or after stitching machineembroidery design 19 onto applique fabric 16.

Furthermore, while stitching a machine embroidery design 17 ontoapplique and foundation fabrics 16, as an integral part of this methodis a significant improvement over prior art, said embroidery design canbe omitted in order to create a more traditional applique cutworkembroidery design.

Additionally, due to my method of constructing an applique cutwork seam18 using a sewing machine, the choice of foundation and applique fabrics11, 16, and combinations there of, can be expanded beyond thetraditional use a lighter weight applique fabric with respect to afoundation fabric.

Still further, while stitches of an applique cutwork embroidery appliedsolely to said foundation fabric are sewn at the end of my method, saidstitches may be applied before, during, or after the sequence of myinvention, as outlined in the preferred embodiment, with minimal impactto the final result.

While only a few embodiments of the present invention have beendescribed in detail hereinabove, all improvements and modifications tothis invention within the scope of equivalents of the claim are coveredby this invention. Some improvements include but are not limited to:

Using the same thread in the top and bobbin of sewing machine to producea finished look on both sides of an applique cutwork embroidery design.

1. A method for producing applique cutwork embroidery using a sewingmachine, which simulates hand stitched applique cutwork embroidery,comprising the steps of: Stitching onto at least one layer of foundationfabric and one layer of removable stabilizer. Stitching concentricunderlay stitches about cutwork sections, binding foundation fabrics toremovable stabilizer. Removing said foundation fabric from within saidcutwork sections. Stitching applique fabric over said cutwork sectionsusing more concentric underlay stitches and bind applique fabric to saidfoundation fabric and removable stabilizer. Trim excess applique fabricfrom outside said cutwork section and concentric underlay stitches.Zigzag stitch over said concentric underlay stitches to completeapplique cutwork seam. Stitch machine embroidery design to said appliqueand foundation fabrics. Satin stitch over said concentric underlaystitches and associated cut fabric edges to conceal same. Finishstitching balance of applique cutwork embroidery onto foundation fabric.Remove removable stabilizer.
 2. The method of claim 1 further comprisesthe step of stitching concentric underlay stitches in rows of at leasttwo.
 3. The method of claim 2 further comprises the step of stitchingeach said row of concentric underlay stitches approximately parallel toone another.
 4. The method of claim 2 further comprises the step ofstitching each set of concentric underlay stitches such that the normalcross sectional distance between outer and inner stitch rows is nearlyas long as the desired stitch width of satin stitches used to concealsaid concentric underlay and zigzag stitches.
 5. The method of claim 1further comprises the step of stitching an embroidery design, or portionthereof, directly onto applique fabric.
 6. The method of claim 5 furthercomprises the step of stitching an embroidery design, or portionthereof, directly onto the applique fabric and a means to stitch saidembroidery design such that said embroidery design appears contiguouswith portions of embroidery stitched solely onto foundation fabric. 7.The method of claim 1 further comprises the step of covering concentricunderlay stitches with satin stitches, or similar concealing stitches.8. The method of claim 1 further comprises the step of removing thestabilizer material.
 9. The method of claim 8 wherein the stabilizermaterial is removed by heat.
 10. The method of claim 8 wherein thestabilizer material is removed by water.
 11. A method of constructing aseam joining two dissimilar fabrics, whereby said seam is sufficient toretain integrity of same under normal, daily use and stress, comprisingthe steps of: Stitching concentric underlay stitches in at least twoseparate rows such that each row of stitches binds applique fabric tofoundation fabric along cut fabric edges of each fabric Stitching saidconcentric underlay stitches such that each row of stitches isapproximately parallel to one other in any one set of concentricunderlay stitches. Zigzag stitching over said concentric underlaystitches such that said zigzag stitches overcast all said concentricunderlay stitches in any one set of concentric underlay stitches.